Amiriyah Bunker

Am 13. Februar 1991, also vor genau 30 Jahren, haben amerikanische Raketen den zivilen Bunker von ِِِِAmiriyah bombardiert und ganz Irak hat geweint.

Obwohl Krieg generell ein Horror ist, stechen manche Gräueltaten aus den Gräueltaten heraus.

Am heutigen Tag vor 30 Jahren haben zwei moderne Laser gesteuerte “smart Bombs” einen Luftschutzbunker, in dem sich mehr als 400 schutzsuchende Menschen aufhielten, zerstört.

Ein “militärischer Erfolg” waren diese hochmodernen Raketen. Eine Freude muss es gewesen sein für das Team, dass diese Technik entwickelt hat. Die erste Rakete durchbohrte die oberen Schutzschichten vom Bunker und machte Platz für die Zweite, die kurze Zeit danach in das vorbereitete Loch eindrang und tief im Inneren des Bunkers explodierte.

Dass 400 Menschen, darunter 200 Frauen und 62 Kinder, das jüngste war 7 Tage alt, qualvoll gestorben sind, ist ja ein Nebenprodukt der Kriegsindustrie, welches Waffenhersteller und Kriegsführer gerne in Kauf nehmen.

Die Bilder aus dem Fernseher und die Schilderungen der Rettungskräfte werde ich nie vergessen. Die Menschen sind nicht nur wie “gewöhnlich” durch die Explosion und die Trümmer gestorben. Der Tod im Schutzpunker geschah schrittweise und langsam. Die erste Bombe löste einen Brand aus und erschütterte den ganzen Bunker, wodurch sich die schweren Schutztüren schlossen und niemand konnte mehr hinaus, oder hinein. Die folgende Rakete zerstörte den Oberbau komplett und das mittlerweile kochende Wasser aus den Tanks und Leitungen floss gnadenlos auf die eingeschlossenen Menschen. Die militärischen “Erfolgsraketen” löschten gesamte Familien aus. Manche Häuser dieser Gegend hatten keine Einwohner mehr. Eine Frau, die zu den Überlebenden gehörte, hatte ihre 8 Kinder im Bunker verloren. Kann man hier wirklich noch von einer Überlebenden sprechen?

Was heute noch zu sehen ist, von diesem abscheulichen Kriegsverbrechen, ist ein Denkmal und ein Museum in Inneren der zerbombten Ruine. Verzweifelte Handabdrücke, die sich durch die extreme Hitze in den Beton eingebrannt haben und viele Fotos erinnern an die Menschen, die statt Schutz den Tod in diesem Bunker gefunden haben. Der gesamte Ort spricht von einem schrecklichen Verbrechen, dessen Täter nie vor Gericht kamen und vielleicht sogar noch als Kriegshelden gefeiert werden.

Mehr über dieses Kriegsverbrechen:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amiriyah_shelter_bombing

Danke an die Irak Instagrammerin @tour_alkhatoon für die Fotos 🙂
شكرا جزيلا لتور الخاتون على الصور

The Name of the Father and the Son

George Bush senior passed away on Friday the 30th of November 2018, at the age of 94.

screen shot yahoo newsThat was the first headline I read last Saturday morning, when I was checking the news on my mobile phone. I looked at his picture and automatically said: „May God take him in his mercy.“ This is a common phrase we use in Arabic when someone dies. But as it came out of my lips, I thought to myself: „Would I take him in my mercy?“

Bush (no matter senior or junior) is a name that, to me,  will always be associated with embargo, war, destruction, bombing, no electricity, fear and so on, in other words, an endless list of very dark memories.

I would never deny that the invasion of Kuwait was a crime in its entire means, but the embargo and the wars on Iraq that followed weren’t any less of a crime. And they proved that diplomacy and good offices, unfortunately, fail in resolving critical problems.
If wars were given grades for their badness level, the „Operation Desert Storm“ would deserve an „A“ with an extra plus for the bombing of „Amiriyah shelter“ and the „highways of death“ the massacre of the withdrawing soldiers.

It is scary that some people on earth may gain such an enormous power in their lifetime that gives them the mightiness to act like Gods. In a way that a single decision they take could mean misery and death for millions.

It was the 17th of January 1991, when Bush senior spoke his word and the war on Iraq started. After the dramatic events, since we woke up in the morning of the 2nd of August 1990, to find out that our troops have walked in to Kuwait and changed our status among the nations, to the most hated country on earth, the final act (as we thought at that time) started. And while most of the world watched the famous night camera recording on TV, showing a scene that looked more like fireworks than the actual hell it was, the Iraqi people were being targeted by those „firework“.

I’ll never forget that night. We woke up to the sound of bombing and shooting all around, the sirens didn’t stop crying and the dark night sky was filled with smoke and fire. Realizing that the promised war had started, we gathered in one room and sat stuck to one another.  I was shivering from head to toe, covered in a thick blanket and praying to God not to be struck by next rocket. Fortunately my family and I survived, but a lot of people, who weren’t as lucky, lost their lives during this war. That day covered Iraq in a veil of poverty, destruction and death that it is still trying to get rid of.

War is always the wrong choice. There is nothing like a „good war“ and a „bad war“. Even if the first statement of Bush was: „As I report to you air attacks are on their way against military targets in Iraq.“  We all know today that the fire that fell from the sky burned a lot more than just military targets.

These thoughts and memories occupied my mind that whole day, as I kept seeing the headlines of Bush‘s death everywhere and the words of condolences that were spoken out for him. Then shortly before going to bed, I saw a post on Instagram, picturing the Kuwait towers lit up with the American flag and a portrait of Bush. It was subtitled with the words: „In memory of George W. Bush. Hero of freedom.“
An aspect that didn’t come to my mind earlier that day. But yes, of course, he must be a hero in Kuwait: he freed the country. It’s their right to celebrate him. My villain is their hero. Just two sides of one coin.

What a strange world I’m living in. Being responsible for crimes, such as the horrible death of more than 400 civilians (mostly women and children) in the „Amiriyah shelter“, does not mean a person won’t be honored and celebrated as a hero.

Well, I guess he doesn’t really need my mercy to rest in peace.

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Meeting Muhammad Ali Clay

Of course we didn’t get the news from the New York Times back in Baghdad in 1990. I googled it today and thought it will make a good start for my story.
We heard about the visit of Muhammad Ali from the local television and we were so excited that someone as great as him was visiting Baghdad. My sister totally adored him. She used to watch his fights when she was a little girl. As for me, well; I have somehow inherited this love, although I never really cared for boxing.
We decided to go and meet him. We knew that it won’t be easy to find him but it’s a once-in-a-life-time chance and we had to take it. Several locations in Baghdad were provided to host the state visitors. We recognized the place when they showed an interview with Muhammad Ali on TV. He was staying in a small resort on the Tigris side called the Weddings Island (before becoming a resort it was called the Pigs’ Island; even though I have never seen a single pig in Baghdad, but never mind).

Welcome
Welcome

We started our mission on Friday morning. My sister, her two best friends and I. We drove to the resort without a plan, as if we were expecting Muhammad Ali to be waiting for us at the entrance! Reaching the resort, we noticed how difficult our mission was; the resort was surrounded by safety barriers and about 50 guards to keep unauthorized people out. „OK, that won’t be easy!“ we parked the car and headed to the checkpoint putting a big and helpless smile on our faces. The eyes of the guards were following us as we walked towards the one sitting at the checkpoint’s gate. We greeted the man but he didn’t even wait for us to end the phrase, he stood up and told us „You shouldn’t be here. The state visitors are staying in the resort and locals are not allowed to enter!“ We all cried out at once „Please, we want to meet Muhammad Ali.“  He just laughed and turned his back on us. But we didn’t give up. We followed him and started to explain how important it was for us to meet him and that we adore him. We were all talking at the same time that we sounded like a bunch of chattering chicken.

The guards started gathering and looking at us as if we were aliens. Trying to meet a celebrity is not a usual seen in Baghdad. We talked and argued with him but it seemed that he didn’t care. We were almost giving up when one of the guards (he looked important) came out of a van and told us to follow him. We walked with him towards our car, while the rest of the guards slowly went back to their position. When we reached the car he asked us: „What do you want from Muhammad Ali?“ „We want to take pictures with him and shake his hand!“ „That’s all? You were arguing for half an hour, just to take a picture with him?“ „Yes, yes!“ he smiled and said: „I’ll take you to him on two conditions: first you don’t tell anyone that I did and second you take a picture of me with Muhammad Ali too.“ He made a short pause then added: „and you bring the developed photo to me, OK? Or I will have to find you!“ Yepppiiii that’s easy, isn’t it? Ammm, but was the last sentence a threat?  OK, we will bring him his photo for sure. Why would we keep it?

We all got in to the car; he sat on the front seat and gave a sign with his hand to the guards to open the gate. We were all silent as if we were afraid to say anything that might make him change his mind.  We drove slowly through the resort. The place was full of security guards who looked surprised to see us. He told us to stop in front of one of the small houses. He stepped out of the car and went to a group of guards standing there. He talked to them and they all laughed out lowed (I’m sure they were joking about us). He came back telling us that Muhammad Ali was in the restaurant having lunch. We drove to the restaurant holding our breath „please let him be there“.  Again lots of guards were surrounding the place. He opened the window and asked one of them: „Is Muhammad Ali inside?“ „Haaaaaa? Who is Muhammad what?“ the man replayed „The Boxer Muhammad Ali, is he inside?“ „Ah, the big one, yes, yes he just went inside.“

At last, we did it. We went into the restaurant and saw him sitting at the head of a large table with his delegation.  Our companion was greeting the guards and freeing the way for us to get through. One of the gentlemen standing near Muhammad Ali came to us and told us: „don’t stay long. Say Hello; take your pictures and leave. Lunch will be served in minutes, OK?“ he turned back and told Mr. Muhammad Ali: „The girls came to meet you!“  Muhammad Ali turned his head and looked at us with a smile on his face and stood up. „God is he BIG!!!“ when I shook his hand my hand totally disappeared in his. You know I don’t remember what we said. I think we just kept repeating „hello, nice to meet you, blah blah blah…“ we were too excited to build a meaning full conversation. Never mind, we did it. We shook hands, took several pictures with him and of course took two pictures of Muhammad Ali with our guardian Angel. We left the restaurant with shining faces. We thanked our companion for his efforts and kindness and we promised to bring him the photos as soon as they are developed and he reminded us again „If you don’t bring them I’ll have to find you!“ „Hmm, OK, we will bring them don’t worry.“

We love you :)
We love you 🙂

We developed the film a month later. By that time the resort was emptied and the smell of war was filling the air. We didn’t search for him and he didn’t find us. I still feel guilty when I go through my photos and see him smiling next to Muhammad Ali Clay.